Fabricating Bezels for Points and Corners
In this demo-focused virtual class, students will learn to fabricate a perfectly fitting fine silver bezel for a cabochon stone with corners and points, such as a pear or a square.
From first measuring the length and height of the bezel to soldering the bezel closed and onto a setting’s back plate, students will be provided various techniques with which to experiment and determine which works best for them. In addition to learning how to test the fit of the stone in the bezel, students will learn how to reduce the height of the bezel, including ensuring the corner height is crisp, clean, and tight.
This course will also cover how to stretch the bezel if it results in being too small and remove a portion of the bezel if too large. Once the stone is in position to be set, students will learn to set the stone and perform the final filing, sanding, and polishing steps.
For demonstration purposes, the setting and finishing work will be shown with the bezel settings on a ring and on a pendant. However, students can accomplish all the skills taught as bezel setting samples, for which the suggested materials are designed.
If you are ready to ramp up your basic skills to the next level of bezel setting, this is the workshop for you!
Meet the instructor

"Growing up, I always was mesmerized by sparkling gemstones and metals and I often incorporate something illuminating into my designs. Whether or not I intricately plan a jewelry piece in advance of producing it or just spontaneously fabricate one as I go along, the result is inevitably something that is unique with a contemporary flair that complements, rather than overwhelms, a wearer. When designing jewelry or other metal work, I always think about whether I would wear it, use it, and/or display it. Anyone who knows me sees a reflection of me in what I design.
I produce fine contemporary jewelry and other metal designs primarily in the precious metals of gold, silver, palladium, and platinum. These are often further defined with the addition of texturing, gemstones and other unique lapidary, or resin inlay. I also manufacture photo-etched metal jewelry and etched cover plates that are attached to journals or are framed--wedding invitations, bar and bat mitzvah invitations, baby announcements, and the like.
In addition to participating in art shows, sales, and doing commission work, I love providing instruction in jewelry design and metal fabrication. My work can be seen and purchased at galleries and stores, as well as in my own online store. Designing and fabricating engagement and wedding bands and other jewelry, often with people's stones, is particularly meaningful to me."
-Wendy Jo
Materials & Tools
The following supplies will be used for course demonstrations and objectives. A suggested item and/or vendor has been provided below for reference. Click the vendor name to be redirected to a page where you can view the item. The quantities needed for each item are listed first. If ordering, please be aware that some items may come in larger quantities than needed for this class. We recommend not opening an item's packaging until the day of the workshop. Student participation during or in-between class sessions is not required - observers are welcome.
Metal/raw materials:
- 6" x 2.38mm x 0.33mm fine silver bezel wire - 28g (Rio Grande)
- 6" x 3.18mm x 0.33mm fine silver bezel wire - 28g (Rio Grande)
- 3"x1" x sterling silver sheet dead soft - 22g (Rio Grande)
Cabochon Stones: Suggested vendors include Rio, Fire Mountain Gems, Indian Jewelry Supply, Village Silversmith, Stachura.
- Pear or Square or Rectangle or Triangle or Tongue (smooth, not rose cut)
- Get 2 that meet the following criteria:
- **6.5 or greater MOHS hardness
- **Opaque suggested
- Minimum Size: At least one of the measurements of 12mm, minimum. If ordering a pear from Rio, some have 10x7mm as largest size. That’s ok but if you can find or have bigger, bigger is better!
Torch setup:
- 1 x fireproof area - steel sheet, tiles, etc. (Amazon or Home Depot)
- 1 x annealing pan with pumice (Rio Grande)
- 1 x compressed charcoal block - hard (Rio Grande)
- 1 x torch - Smith mini, Silversmith, or butane (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
- 1 x #0 torch tip - #00 strongly recommended (Rio Grande)
- 1 x striker or lighter - Silversmith system has one (Rio Grande)
- 1 x soldering tweezers (Rio Grande)
- 1 x soldering pick (Rio Grande)
- 1 x cross lock tweezers (Rio Grande)
- 1 x paste flux (Rio Grande)
- 1 x copper tongs - for pickle (Rio Grande)
- 1 x 6” silver solder - medium (Rio Grande)
- 1 x 6” silver solder - easy (Rio Grande)
- 1 x pickle - sodium bisulfate or citric acid (Rio Grande or Amazon)
- 1 x brass bristle brush (Rio Grande)
- 1 x crock pot or lidded glass container (Rio Grande or Amazon)
- 1 x tempered glass container and sink - for quenching and rinsing
- 1 x small brush - for flux
- 1 x liquid hand soap - instructor recommends Dawn brand
Hand tools:
- 1 x snips / flush cutters (Rio Grande)
- 1 x jewelers saw (Rio Grande)
- 1 x pack saw blades - 2/0 (Rio Grande)
- 1 x burlife / bee's wax (Rio Grande)
- 1 x bench pin (Rio Grande)
- 1 x rotary tool - flex shaft, micro motor, etc. (Rio Grande)
- 1 x set of needle files - #2 cut (Rio Grande)
- 1 x scribe (Rio Grande)
- 1 x rawhide / plastic mallet (Rio Grande)
- 1 x chasing hammer (Rio Grande)
- 1 x steel block / steel surface (Rio Grande)
- 1 x small steel ruler (Rio Grande)
- 1 x sheet of sand paper - 220 to 600 grits (Rio Grande)
- 1 x calipers or dividers (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
- 1 x slim parallel pliers (Rio Grande)
- 1 x burnisher (Rio Grande)
- 1 x shears - Joyce Chen brand (Amazon)
- 1 x snap on mandrel (Rio Grande)
- 1 x snap on sanding disc - 320 grit (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
- 1 x screw mandel (Rio Grande)
- 1 x pumice wheel (Rio Grande)
- 2 x polishing buff (Gesswein)
- 1 x slotted mandrel (Rio Grande)
- 1 x Tripoli, Green Luxor, other pre-polish compound for silver (Gesswein)
- 1 x Rouge or other polishing compound for silver (Gesswein)
- 1 x miter jig - optional (Gesswein)
- 1 x tripod with screen - optional (Rio Grande)
- 1 x bezel rocker - optional (Rio Grande)
Other/miscellaneous items:
- hard work surface
- fan and open window - or ventilation system
- safety glasses
- pencil, notebook
- Sharpie - fine point
- rags/towels
- masking or painters tape
- soft bristle toothbrush - could be old one
- dental floss - the type that gets pulled from dispenser
- double stick tape