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Creative Claw Settings for Unusual Shapes
Bezels are typically the go-to stone setting style when it comes to cabochons, but what if an airier look is desired? This demo-centered virtual workshop will focus on just the fix – claw setting!
Claw settings are a series of vertically oriented and tapered metal prongs, otherwise known as “claws”, designed to hold a gemstone securely in place whilst allowing maximum light to reach it. Students will earn how to lay out and shape prongs to hold all manner of cabochons and cabochon-adjacent materials. In addition, they will learn strategies for setting these stones with this unique setting with a special emphasis placed on how the scale of the set-object changes the prong’s sizing. This course will also cover how to deal with cabochons that have a more unusual profile to them – so long as it’s got a flat bottom, it’s a free game!
Meet the instructor
William Vanaria is a Massachusetts based artist with a penchant for oddball materials. His work utilizes traditional metalsmithing techniques and a wide verity of non-traditional materials to produce jewelry which both questions and comments on notions of romanticism, value, fakery, and the hierarchy of materials present within modern day consumer culture. Through his work he pushes for a broader system of value which has been formulated though experience, consideration, and critical thinking.
William received a Bachelor of Fine Arts degree from the Massachusetts College of Art and Design with a concentration in "Jewelry & Metalsmithing" in 2012. Afterwards, he spent time working within the jewelry industry and volunteering as a teacher's assistant for various art institutions. He found that the latter was much more fulfilling, so he went on to further his education within the arts and to pursue a career in teaching. William received his Masters of Fine Arts degree from the University of Massachusetts: Dartmouth in 2016; once again with a concentration in "Jewelry & Metalsmithing."
Materials & Tools
The following supplies will be used for course demonstrations and objectives. A suggested item and/or vendor has been provided below for reference. Click the vendor name to be redirected to a page where you can view the item. The quantities needed for each item are listed first. If ordering, please be aware that some items may come in larger quantities than needed for this class. We recommend not opening an item's packaging until the day of the workshop. Student participation during or in-between class sessions is not required - observers are welcome.
Metal/raw materials:
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5" x sterling or brass round wire - 14g
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1 x brass or copper sheet - 14g min. - big enough for your stone
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1 x large cabochon - unusual shape, oval, square, etc.
Hand tools:
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1 x snips / flush cutters (Rio Grande)
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1 x jewelers saw (Rio Grande)
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1 x pack saw blades - 2/0 (Rio Grande)
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1 x burlife / bee's wax (Rio Grande)
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1 x bench pin (Rio Grande)
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1 x half round hand file - #2 cut (Rio Grande)
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1 x rotary tool - flex shaft, micro motor, etc. (Rio Grande)
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1 x set of needle files - #2 cut (Rio Grande)
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1 x scribe (Rio Grande)
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1 x chasing hammer (Rio Grande)
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1 x sheet of sand paper - 220 to 600 grits (Rio Grande)
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1 x calipers (Rio Grande)
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1 x sanding sticks (Rio Grande)
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1 x parallel pliers (Rio Grande)
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1 x 6" barrette hand file - #2 cut (Rio Grande)
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1 x loupe - 10x zoom (Rio Grande)
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1 x center punch - must be sharp (Rio Grande)
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1 x broach set (Rio Grande)
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1 x layout fluid - optional but helpful (Amazon)
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1 x pack of silicone wheels - medium (Rio Grande)
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1 x screw mandrel - 3/32" shank (Rio Grande)
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1 x drill bit - #53 (Rio Grande)
Torch setup:
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1 x fireproof area - steel sheet, tiles, etc. (Amazon or Home Depot)
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1 x Solderite™ pad / pan with pumice (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
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1 x torch - Smith mini, Silversmith, or butane (Rio Grande or Rio Grande)
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1 x #0 or #1 torch tip - if getting Silversmith (Rio Grande)
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1 x striker or lighter - Silversmith system has one (Rio Grande)
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1 x soldering tweezers (Rio Grande)
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1 x soldering pick (Rio Grande)
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1 x 3rd arm (Rio Grande)
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1 x cross lock tweezers (Rio Grande)
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1 x paste flux (Rio Grande)
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1 x copper tongs - for pickle (Rio Grande)
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1 x 6” silver solder - hard (Rio Grande)
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1 x 6” silver solder - medium (Rio Grande)
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1 x 6” silver solder - easy (Rio Grande)
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1 x pickle - sodium bisulfate or citric acid (Rio Grande or Amazon)
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1 x crock pot or lidded glass container (Rio Grande or Amazon)
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1 x tempered glass container or sink - for quenching and rinsing
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1 x small brush - for flux
Other/miscellaneous materials:
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hard work surface
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fan and open window or ventilation system
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safety glasses
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pencil, Sharpie, notebook
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rags/towels